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Breeder Considerations
Breed Standard
Locating A Breeder

Breeder Considerations

Responsible breeding habits must always be foremost on the mind of a breeder.  Breeders as well as the perspective parents need to be prepared before the breeding.  The following guide will help determine if you are ready to, or should breed the dogs.  Breeding a litter of puppies is not always a profitable experience, in fact it can be extremely expensive when problems arise.

  1. The Elkhound should be a good representation of the breed.  This means get expert opinions as to the merits of the dog.

  2. Both stud and dam need to have their health checked for the following:

    A. Hip Displasia - X-ray the hips for any hip joint deteriorations or abnormal formations.

    B. PRA -A CERF test to see if the dog has any eye problems.

    C. Brucellosis - A disease that affects the dogs reproductive organs.

    D. Thyroid - Abnormal levels that cause health problems.

    E. Diabetes - High levels of sugars can lead to blindness.

    F. General Health - Dogs should be at their general weight.

    G. Shots - All shots must be current, including; Bordetella (Kennel Cough).   
             

    H. Fanconi Disease - A disease that shortens the life of a dog. 

  3. Both perspective parents should have good temperament.

  4. Sire and dam should not have the same faults.

  5. Breeders need to have a knowledge of health issues in their bloodlines.

  6. Do you have the time (from 8 to 12 weeks) to care for the dam and her litter?

  7. A breeder must be able to afford extra veterinary bills in case of complications.  This can be upwards of $2,000.

  8. Someone has to be available to help the dam with her puppies.

  9. Have a few perspective buyers before the puppies are born.

  10. Make sure you have a veterinarian on call in case problems arise.

  11. Be prepared to bottle feed, or supplement the feeding of puppies.

  12. The puppies and the bitch need to see a veterinarian within 24 hours of the first puppies birth.

  13. A Breeder is always willing to take back any puppy they bred, or compensate a buyer for an unhealthy puppy.

  14. You will need a dog run that is safe and big enough to exercise the puppies.

  15. The whelping pen needs to be in a climate controlled area.  NO DRAFTS!

  16. The breeder has to maintain the dogs health.  Puppies and mom need to be wormed at 2-3 weeks and the puppies will need their shots at about 6-7 weeks.

 

Breed Standard


General Appearance
The Norwegian Elkhound is a hardy gray hunting dog. In appearance, a typical northern dog of medium size and substance, square in profile, close coupled and balanced in proportions. The head is broad with prick ears, and the tail is tightly curled and carried over the back. The distinctive gray coat is dense and smooth lying. As a hunter, the Norwegian Elkhound has the courage, agility and stamina to hold moose and other big game at bay by barking and dodging attack, and the endurance to track for long hours in all weather over rough and varied terrain.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Height at the withers for dogs is 20½ inches, for bitches 19½ inches. Weight for dogs about 55 pounds, for bitches about 48 pounds.

Square in profile and close coupled. Distance from brisket to ground appears to be half the height at the withers. Distance from forechest to rump equals the height at the withers.
Bone is substantial, without being coarse.

Head
Head broad at the ears, wedge shaped, strong and dry (without loose skin). Expression keen, alert, indicating a dog with great courage. Eyes very dark brown, medium in size, oval, not protruding. Ears set high, firm and erect, yet very mobile. Comparatively small; slightly taller than their width at the base with pointed (not rounded) tips. When the dog is alert, the orifices turn forward and the outer edges are vertical. When relaxed or showing affection, the ears go back, and the dog should not be penalized for doing this during the judge's examination.

Viewed from the side, the forehead and back of the skull are only slightly arched; the stop not large, yet clearly defined. The muzzle is thickest at the base and, seen from above or from the side, tapers evenly without being pointed. The bridge of the nose is straight, parallel to and about the same length as the skull. Lips are tightly closed and teeth meet in a scissors bite.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck of medium length, muscular, well set up with a slight arch and with no loose skin on the throat. Topline --The back is straight and strong from its high point at the withers to the root of the tail. The body is short and close-coupled with the rib cage accounting for most of its length. Chest deep and moderately broad; brisket level with points of elbows; and ribs well sprung. Loin short and wide with very little tuck-up. Tail set high, tightly curled, and carried over the centerline of the back. It is thickly and closely haired, without brush. natural and untrimmed.

Forequarters
Shoulders sloping with elbows closely set on. Legs well under body and medium in length; substantial, but not coarse, in bone. Seen from the front, the legs appear straight and parallel. Single dewclaws are normally present. Feet --Paws comparatively small, slightly oval with tightly closed toes and thick pads. Pasterns are strong and only slightly bent. Feet turn neither in nor out.

Hindquarters
Moderate angulation at stifle and hock. Thighs are broad and well muscled. Seen from behind, legs are straight, strong and without dewclaws. Feet as in front.

Coat
Thick, hard, weather resisting and smooth lying; made up of soft, dense, woolly undercoat and coarse, straight covering hairs. Short and even on head, ears, and front of legs; longest on back of neck, buttocks and underside of tail. The coat is not altered by trimming, clipping or artificial treatment. Trimming of whiskers is optional. In the show ring, presentation in a natural, unaltered condition is essential.

Color
Gray, medium preferred, variations in shade determined by the length of black tips and quantity of guard hairs. Undercoat is clear light silver as are legs, stomach, buttocks, and underside of tail. The gray body color is darkest on the saddle, lighter on the chest, mane and distinctive harness mark (a band of longer guard hairs from shoulder to elbow). The muzzle, ears and tail tip are black. The black of the muzzle shades to lighter gray over the forehead and skull.

Yellow or brown shading, white patches, indistinct or irregular markings, "sooty" coloring on the lower legs and light circles around the eyes are undesirable. Any overall color other than gray as described above, such as red, brown, solid black, white or other solid color, disqualifies.

Gait
Normal for an active dog constructed for agility and endurance. At a trot the stride is even and effortless; the back remains level. As the speed of the trot increases, front and rear legs converge equally in straight lines toward a center line beneath the body, so that the pads appear to follow in the same tracks (single track). Front and rear quarters are well balanced in angulation and muscular development.

Temperament
In temperament, the Norwegian Elkhound is bold and energetic, an effective guardian yet normally friendly, with great dignity and independence of character.

Summary
The Norwegian Elkhound is a square and athletic member of the northern dog family. His unique coloring, weather resistant coat and stable disposition make him an ideal multipurpose dog at work or at play.

Disqualifications
An overall color other than gray.

Approved December 13, 1988
Effective February 1, 1989

Looking For A Breeder

Finding a good breeder is important to both you and your future puppy.  Locating a breeder that will show interest in the puppy long after the sale is beneficial to all.  Remember you are searching for a breeder that carefully selects the right stud for their dam and has performed several health checks on both perspective parents.

  1. Look for sire and dam to gave some type of title from a registered kennel club.  The American Kennel Club, Canadian Kennel Club, or Stares Kennel Club, just to name a few.

  2. The American Kennel Club has a breeder referral list of breeders in a good standing that live in your area.

  3. National and regional clubs have lists of breeders in  good standing in many areas of the country.

  4. The dam should be on Premises as well as pictures of the stud if he is unavailable.

  5. Both stud and dam need to have their health checked for the following:

    A. Hip Displasia - X-ray the hips for any hip joint deteriorations or abnormal formations.

    B. PRA -A CERF test to see if the dog has any eye problems.

    C. Brucellosis - A disease that affects the dogs reproductive organs.

    D. Thyroid - Abnormal levels that cause health problems.

    E. Diabetes - High levels of sugars can lead to blindness.

    F. General Health - Dogs should be at their general weight.

    G. Shots - All shots must be current, including; Bordetella (Kennel Cough).


    H. Fanconi Disease - A liver disease that shortens the life of a dog.

  6. Ask for a three generation pedigree of the puppies.
  7. The litter should be registered with a national kennel club (AKC or CKC).
  8. You should expect the breeders to guarantee the puppy's health to be free of hip displasia.
  9. Use caution when entering into contracts that require the breeder to be co-owner of the dog.  This may require you to pay for unforeseen entry fees to have the breeder show your dog.  Watch for stipulations that give the breeder the right to breed your dog for free in the future.
  10. Try to find an experienced breeder that shows their dogs rather than someone that is just breeding a pet.
  11. A breeder should be available to the buyer before and for a long time after the sale.
  12. Good breeders are knowledgeable regarding health issues of the puppy's bloodline.
  13. Most breeders will give you literature on the proper care of your puppy.
  14. When you visit the puppies, they should all be clean and healthy looking.
  15. Avoid the breeder that is breeding just to make money.  Most breeders will want one or more of the puppies for themselves.
  16. Try to find a breeder that you are comfortable in dealing with in the future.
  17. Never buy a puppy from someone in a parking lot.
  18. If the breeder does not have a puppy for you, do they recommend another breeder?
  19. The puppies should have a good temperament.
  20. Make sure the puppies have been to the vet for their shots and are wormed.
  21. A copy of the puppy's health records must be supplied by the breeder.
  22. Registration papers should be produced at the time of sale.
  23. The breeder should send along with the puppy, enough food for the transition period.
  24. Avoid puppies that are overly shy, or aggressive.
  25. Expect the breeders to interview you to see if you will be a good owner.

 

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